We've known for a while that Rolex has given Tudor a lot of leeway to experiment and be a playing ground for concepts that Rolex at large is often hesitant to implement, given their conservative attitude toward product changes. Having said that, Rolex finally released a watch with a silicon balance spring last year - but only for high-end women's watches. Their silicon technology is called Rolex Syloxi (more here). The implications for Tudor using an in-house made movement with a long power reserve and silicon parts may very well hint to what Rolex might be doing in their sport watches in 2015 or the years to come.
For a long time I've been after a cool sporty dive watch with a mother-of-pearl dial. One that is nevertheless masculine... I think with the Kentex Marineman Seahorse I got exactly what I was asking for. The naturally glossy and slightly colorful dial material looks attractive and gives the otherwise utilitarian design a decorative look.
A typical project of his begins its life as a base ETA 6497 or 6498 movement as they are most comfortable for his type of work. These movements also allow him to create much more complex work with layered images resulting in a beautiful and three-dimensional piece of art. He begins by planning out and sketching everything from the dial and main plate to the crown wheel and drum barrel. The movement is then stripped down to its bare bones where each component is then engraved and skeletonized individually. The components are then hand polished one by one, and plated in either rhodium, nickel, or occasionally, gold. The movement is then meticulously reassembled and tested to ensure everything runs smoothly.
My understanding is that there are a few versions (at least two) of the Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Naimakka limited edition watch meaning various strap/dial color options. The strap actually has a very interesting buckle system that I like a lot. More so, the Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Naimakka limited edition watches come with a few other unique extras. These include a special clear, removable plastic case guard with compass navigational markers on it, and a special knife. We are talking about a Swiss Army folding blade with a small Naimakka lanyard attachment.
When watches try and point your interpretation of them in a certain direction, it often feels a little conscious. There is nothing patently obvious about the Tag Heuer Monaco to suggest its motor racing heritage (it isn't even round!). When a watch lacks the kind of authenticity Zenith claim to have installed in the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition, it has to be synthesized. And it is fair to say, however successful or otherwise you think they might have been, that Zenith have had a damn good go.
The Breitling Cockpit B50 had Breitling produce a new Superquartz movement that was exclusive to them and featured a rechargeable battery and some extra functionality compared to their existing Superquartz-based timepiece with an ETA movement. It was so close to a smartwatch... but just shy of having real connectivity. Now just a few months later, in advance of Baselworld 2015, Breitling more-or-less updates the same watch to the Breitling B55 Connected, and unless the pricing is very different, I'd probably say that the B50 might not be as attractive, depending on what you want to do with it.
The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month does away with the tourbillon and the moon phase indication, using the generous dial real estate to feature a "digital" date, month, and leap year indication for its perpetual calendar, pairing that impressive (and extremely rarely seen) combination of complications with a chronograph. Because of this selection of complications, the case, although still 46 millimeter wide, now is 17 mm thick, as the 89802 movement requires considerably more space.
11. G-FORCE: Acceleration, the G-force, can be measured automatically during liftoff, during the re-entry phase, or be initiated at a chosen point in time. During measurement, the highest G-force value is stored in a separate memory.
1. Watchmaker Takes Us Inside The Popular Rolex 3135 Watch Movement
To match, the hands are satin-finished with a titanium carbide coating and filled with anthracite grey SuperLuminova. The only color comes from the red of the exposed jewels. To complete the watch’s all black look, it is offered with a matte black alligator strap with a deployant buckle finished with black titanium carbide coating. If you like stealthy watches that fly under the radar, they don't get more "stealth" than this.
Legibility for a timepiece like this is surprisingly good. On paper, if I would describe the make up of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon 5-Day Power Reserve Indicator watch it would not speak to legibility. Nevertheless, the applied brushed out indicators filled with black-colored luminant and matching hands offer enough contrast to read them clearly against the open dial backed with a skeletonized view of the movement.
While I think it is a better fit to a larger watch (and why we had it come in a 24mm width), you can get it in 18, 20, 22, 24, or 26mm widths. Just know what you are getting into. While the leather is decently comfortable, the thicker layers that sit on top of each other (and you then fold through the buckles) makes for a very bulky proposition.
Moving down to the MB&F Melchior's torso, you see discs used to indicate the minutes and hours. This is where you'll be primarily looking if you are interesting in using the MB&F Melchior to read the time. Look further down to the robot's pelvic region, and you'll see a power reserve indicator. The L’Epée-produced mechanical movement has a total power reserve of 40 days - which is a nice long time, so it is good that the clock comes with an attached winding key.
Attached to the Breitling Chronoliner case is either the Breitling "Ocean Classic" mesh metal steel bracelet or the standard Navitimer bracelet. I would probably prefer the latter, because try as I might, I can't seem to find "Milanese" mesh metal bracelets all that amazing for daily wear. The Breitling Chronoliner will also likely look fantastic on the right straps. Think of how cool this would look on the right color and textured brown strap.
And it's the tune, and nothing but the tune, that Girard-Perregaux want to reach your ears! Girard-Perregaux have elected to keep the flywheel hidden to eliminate acoustic interference. However faint the whizzing of the flywheel (located on the movement-side, and which is used to regulate the hammers' striking speed) may be, Girard-Perregaux wanted the sound from the gong to be as clear as possible.
I must admit I was a huge fan of the Hublot Big Bang when it first came out, not long after I'd started my career as a watchmaker (for an extremely divisive incarnation, check out this article here). It was one of the pieces that seemed to shake up the standards I'd associated with haute horlogerie from the outside looking in. Over time, my love for the brand and their chunky cases has waned, but I am very taken by the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Aerofusion because of the touches the Watch Gallery have added to make it stand out from the crowd.
In some images it is difficult to tell, but the hands on the dial are all blued steel. The hour and minute hands also happen to be skeletonized. Given their large size, the hands are still pretty legible, but this was an interesting design decision for Zenith to make. I think it works out well in the end.