It is hard to dislike the skeletonized by lume coated hands. Not only do they look cool, but they are sized properly. I applaud this as you know short hands irk me. One of the most intelligent aspects of the design is the eccentric subsidiary seconds dial. The placement of it is unique, and adds a new layer of technical and visual interest. It might have been tough for Praesto to place the subdial in this spot - not sure if the movement was designed in that manner. The subsidiary seconds dial has a double sided hand with the orange section acting as a counterweight. It is a nifty look and the orange adds to the modern feel. On this model you have an easy on the eyes metallic blue dial with a light sunburst polish to it. There is also a black dial available - though I found it hard to resist the unique blue version. Lume is applied to most all important parts of the dial as you can see from the image. The design of the dial does not allow for the thickest application of lume, but the watch does have SuperLumiNova that gives it as bight a look as is possible with some charging in the light. Overall I give high marks to the dial as it totally makes the watch what it is, and is going to be the reason why people are going to get themselves a Modern Fliegeruhr watch.
The Royal Oak Offhsore Juan Pablo Montoya two variants coming in titanium or gold. I believe it came out in 2002, during the time when Mr. Montoya was doing quick well in the F1 scene. Please be aware that this is of the most highly sought after Audemars Piguet limited edition Formula 1 watches. Actually, one of the most collectible limited edition Royal Oak Offshore pieces out there at all. Basically that means it is one of the few that is available and prices more than it likely retailed for about 8 years ago. 1000 pieces in titanium, and 500 pieces in rose gold. It is no coincidence that the race car driver's name sounds like he is a drug lord. He is after all Colombian. If I had one of the watches, I would just let people think AP made it for a very special, very persuasive client in South America. The watch chronograph hands are in the colors of the Colombian flag, and there is an interesting variation to the standard "mega tapisserie" dial textures. In the middle, the pattern changes to look like a race track curve, a bit like a flag, or perhaps the Microsoft Windows logo (surely the latter).
Size is a reasonable 42mm by 15.4mm, 200g on the bracelet. The movement is the tracteur ETA 2893, the standard for GMT movements. It's not ideal - I prefer the modified versions as found in Omegas that allow the main hour hand to be moved in 1-hour increments - but still useful for tracking two or three timezones.
It's a nice looking watch, and I like that they didn't enlarge it. 40mm is a perfect size for a versatile dress/sport watch design like this, and 12mm thick will slide under most shirt cuffs.
Porsche Design is upping the size of the P6530 watch to modern measures at 44mm wide. Of course the look of the watch is more or less the same, as is the dial. The watch is in titanium, like back when titanium was truly exotic. The cool smooth lines on the bead-blasted case remind me of how titanium is used best. These days we have techniques to polish up titanium and make it look all fancy-like. Little do most people know that you stare at polished titanium the wrong way and it scratches. Light and strong don't necessarily mean scratch resistant. A bead-blasted case will accept wear and tear more gracefully. The original watch that this Heritage P6530 is based on was actually the world's first titanium chronograph watch when it was released in 1980, and made by IWC.
I must say that they have succeeded rather well bringing new fresh ideas to traditional design while still honoring it's roots. Giving traditional aviator watch a modern new look with out being out of place. For many, this will be a way of getting a boutique brand Aviator style watch with a Swiss movement for a price lower than you'd expect.
Notice the chronograph hands in all red. This keeps you from searching too hard with your eyes when reading them. This is the same as on the Spring Drive version, though that watch has a power reserve indicator as well as a GMT complication. The 8R28 12 hour chronograph operation is fantastic. The easy to press large pushers have a two position feature for highly precise operation. Press the pushers down just a bit to get them into the "ready" position, and then push them down all the way immediately start the chronograph with no lag. It is a similar system to how you operate the shutter button on most digital cameras.
Not her real name of course, she was dubbed "SpidoGirl" by Mr. Linde after the quick number she tried to pull at LW headquarters, when she nearly succeeded in stealing two of the "Perfect Five" microchips tested in the firm's laboratory. Obviously, there's a face behind that mask, and a name behind that face, but nobody knows yet what goals she pursues, whether she works on her own or for some other parties.
The silicone and rubber on the watches should take wear pretty well. The case is water resistant to 200 meters on all Cruise Sport models, and they offer a snug, no slip wearing experience on the wrist. I easily consider them an upgrade over the last generation TechnoMarine Cruise watches. Only minor parts are carried over from previous models. The crystal is mineral, but that is OK at this price level. Then again, Mr. Perriard had very little time to make a new collection in time for Basel 2010 - so what he was able to accomplish was impressive. He has me excited for what he will feature for next year.
The SNR005 watch contains a Spring Drive caliber 5R65 automatic movement. It has 30 jewels and a power reserve of about 72 hours. This movement has the basic Spring Drive features that other movements have expanded upon. This includes the time, date, and power reserve indicator. You can hand wind the movement as well of course. You'll hear a different type of sound than you normally would with a standard mechanical watch. Because Spring Drive has a mainspring and not a battery, that is what the crown is winding. When the mainspring runs down, instead of feeding power to an escapement, it feeds power to a special quartz regulator that acts like a brake. It slows the power to be highly consistent. The release of this power can be seen by the "glide wheel," which is what replaces an escapement. Seeing this wheel in action (through the back of the watch) allows you to understand why the seconds hand moves so smoothly without ticking. I like that Seiko placed the date on a dark colored disc to match the dial. Back on the matter of winding. Hand-winding the movement feels very efficient, while it seems to take automatic winding a bit more to power the watch to full. After a day of wearing the watch, the power reserve won't necessarily be lower than it originally was, but it won't necessarily be in the full position either. This means that the watch won't run down on you, but if you live a less "wrist active" lifestyle or don't wear the watch as much, I recommend putting it in a watch winder or keeping an eye on the power reserve indicator to hand-wind it if necessary.
Listen to HourTime Show watch podcast episode 23 here.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980 Watch
4 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980 Watch
John is engorged with anger and I talk about some watches I like. His gripes include such annoyances as "watches with three hands," and mechanical watches that only tell the time. He officially has the title "grinch of horology." Check out and listen to this week's episode of the HourTime show podcast here.
Louis Moinet Meteoris Watch Set
3 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Louis Moinet Meteoris Watch Set
In 2011 they will release this very unique Driver 1911 watch in celebration of the 100 year anniversary of the Chevrolet Motor Car Company. This is one strange watch, and an ambitious feat. It obviously is reminiscent of the other motoring styles watches that a leaning face that makes it easier to read why your hands are on a steering wheel. See Parmigiani for watches like that. But there is a lot more to the upcoming Driver 1911 watch. The watch is meant to look like the hood of a car, complete with engine. Actually the design of the watch is a cross between an instrument panel, bonnet (as the English say) and engine. If you check out the video you can see more of what I am talking about.
Bvlgari, err... Bulgari always looks better in all caps right? While I have been seeing lots of confused designs from Bulgari as of late, this Diagono X-Pro is something I am not at all confused about liking (which is to say that I do like it). The cool masculine watch takes a few lessons from the polished looks of the Bulgari design play book, and adds a testosterone powered stamp of approval on it. When it comes down to it, while this is a great watch in and of itself, it feels like Bulgari's answer to the Hublot Big Bang. Not only in design, but also when it comes to the "fusion" of materials. Bulgari knows that with its performance over the last few years and the current economy, it can't dick around. It needs to give people what they want - which is apparently still luxury sport watches.
What made the watch so great was the (mostly) in-house movement, sexy functional design, and ultra easy to read dial. The name "Indicator" referred to the digital readout of the chronograph. While the chronograph seconds used the main dial in an standard analog format, the right side of the dial had a digital jumping set of indicators for the chronograph. It could measure about 10 hours. The watch also features a subsidiary seconds dial and a power reserve indicator - both which are special.
Oris watches are sometimes hit and miss for me. This one I really like though. It is really a tool that is OK to wear for any occasion. The Divers Date (I am not sure why there is no apostrophe in "divers") has a great looking curvy case that is 44mm wide in steel. Actually, there is an almost identical version in titanium called the Divers TT1 Titan watch. This version is different in the material, and the 4 o'clock placement of the crown. OK, I need to stay focused on the watch at hand, but really, there are many versions of these watches.
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If you think about it, Porsche Design diver's watches are rare. In fact, this is only the brand's second dive watch. The first was the Ocean 2000, and that was made by IWC and came out in the early 1980s. That was a really fantastic watch actually. Of course, the Porsche Design Diver is something totally different compared to the previous diver from almost 30 years ago.